Thursday, November 15, 2007

India 2007 thoughts about poverty and beggars

One of the things I did not mention in much detail was the poverty and quality of life that we observed. We spent most of our time in the north which is the poorest part of India so our view was limited. It was also limited by the fact that much of what we saw was a result of a comparison with the US and Thailand. Virtually every village and town has hand pumped water wells which I assume is the main source of potable water. Compared to having to walk long distances to get what may or may not be clean water vs being able to pump water from a nearby well this is obviously preferable. I do wonder about the potability of the water as there appears to be very few sewage systems. Again, this conclusion was based on seeing people and our experience of the need to just use local fields to "do our business" or as our guide liked to say "take a leak". (on our last night as we were late and rushing to get our flight back to Thailand I had to ask our driver to stop in a dark spot in the middle of Delhi so I could "take a leak" !)

The housing situation also seemed very limited in terms of availability, size, running water and toilets etc. Having said that, the weather is warm year around so needing closed and insulated houses is not an issue. We also saw many workers living in straw huts and tents.

One thing I kept considering is what does this really mean to the people living this life style? If they grow up in this environment is it so unpleasant? Do they have any more frustration or problems in a day or just different ones? I'm sure that life in the US 150 years ago was not so different in regards to water and sewage! As the saying goes "The kings of yesteryear lived like the poor of today" People don't appear to be undernourished or unhappy. When watching people sit around and talk they have lots of laughs just like we do. They might not have a lot of clothes but they appear neat and clean. Do they need cell phones, computers and cars to lead happy lives?


There is one thing that is distressing, and our view is skewed by our experience as "tourists", is the number of beggars. Obviously, tourists and comparatively wealthy tourists are targets for beggars so our exposure is much higher. Still we could observe people begging when there were no tourists. Like any society a certain number of people are just unable, for many reasons, to work and earn a suitable living. However, India seems to have many more beggars than other countries due, most probably, to lack of education, work opportunities and jobs with a living wage.

Finally, there is the question: do we create the problem by giving money to beggars? Still it is unlikely that most tourists - especially Buddhists on a pilgrimage - will stop giving to beggars! There were several scenes when our group threw candy and even money out the bus windows which caused a minor riot with mainly kids fighting over the spoils. To our eyes it was disrespectful.

The question is: how to deal with beggars when visiting India. When you see a young thin mother holding a small baby asking for basically pennies what should one do?
We basically tried to give to some beggars small change. It appeared other Indians did this too. The good news is that the cost of living is very low so that one can get enough to eat with very very little money.

1 comment:

Kate said...

beggars.... a huge issue. something I reflect about all the time. I used to put change in my pocket and give it to whoever... until it was gone. Now I have stopped doing that. Here in Norway we have gotten a huge influx of beggars, mostly Roma known as gypsies from Eastern Europe. When the borders were opened to Eastern Europeans they suddenly started coming here in droves. This summer a young girl, about 12 sat and sadly played exactly the same tune on her accordion outside all day 6 days a week hoping to collect a few "pennies". The Roma are now on every street corner and organize themselves by cell phones. As I see it, they have specifically come here to beg. I can't help but feel that giving will only encourage this unfortunate situation and increase the abusive use of women and children towards the goal of collecting money. In Thailand once, many years ago I gave money to a young mother and child sitting out on the street. Some time later a man with no legs and somehow moving himself around on flip-flops on his hands asked for money on a train. He systematically worked his way through the train. Then, my at the time, 5 year old daughter, said 'why did I give money to the mother and not to that man', who obviously was in dire straits. A great question that I have thought about many a time since. i bicycle to work in the summer and every day I pass a beggar - he gives me the biggest smile and says have a nice day in the sweetest way... and though I know he is begging, he doesn't have a cup or hat in his hand, only on the ground. One day I decided he really deserved a treat. I went out and bought him gourmet coffee and a bun and brought it back and said thank you for being so cheerful to me every day. He was sooooo sweet. I didn't change the situation at all - not really in any way - just gave him a moment of pleasure really. Somehow I always wonder what giving to a beggar leads to...if it reinforces the behavior you really got to wonder. One day an older man came up to me as I was getting on our ferry and he asked for money to take the ferry (it is about $7.-) and I said he could travel with me and I would clip my ticket for him instead. He said no thanks and turned around and went the other way. I guess he really wanted the money instead. There is no clear-cut answer of course...but if beggars are put on the streets by a mafia-like organisation, then it really is counter-productive to feed into that. If I see the same person day in and day out I usually give them food - I know it goes to them and I know they will get some small tiny pleasure out of it. Thanks for bringing it up Tom. Regards, Kate